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Dye and Let Live
by Clare Lambe

If you're planning on switching from raven black to honey blond, don't go to John Masters in Soho – he'll turn you away. The cocktail of chemical agents required to make that kind of spectrum leap are strictly banned at the clean-air salon, as are perms, straightening agents, ammonia and hairspray.

"People worry about smoking, " Masters says with a sigh. "But they'll happily make a toxic wasteland of their hair." Masters started using vegetal dyes in 1994 and, after extensive research, reckons that Europe has the best available. "I thoroughly investigate all of the products," he says. "And only use those that actually work." He imports lines such as Color Herbe, an ammonia-free range from Italy, but also uses US-made Farouk bleach, which is clay-based and less likely to cause the chemical burns associated with going platinum.

Besides salon processes, Masters has a self-titled organic hair care line. It combines zinc, sage, honey and hibiscus with an array of steam-distilled essential oils, which he uses to create glossy, conditioned results.


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